2012年5月28日星期一

It’s about more than the Dalai lama

“Mongolians and Tibetans are like this.” Actually, there was a pantomime of hands held parallel as the Tibetan man said: “Mongolia people…Tibet people...” Looking at me to make sure I understood, he moved his hands together.

I heard these words from my Tibetan guide during my trip through Western China in April. We had camped overnight in April near Songpan in Aba County in a Tibetan Prefecture during a horse trek. I didn’t know Tibetan or Chinese and his English was very limited but we bonded when I mentioned my destination of Mongolia. I’d come to this region from Chengdu China, taking an overland route.

I had learned that a sizable Tibetan nomad population--quite comparable with Mongolian nomads--existed in the Sichuan, Gansu and Qinghai Provinces, beyond the more well-known Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR) which most associate Tibet with. The area had just opened up to travelers after a two-month closure. The Tibetan Autonomous Prefectures (TAP) exist outside the TAR, but do not require the permits and guides which push travel in the TAR to $150 per day.

The downside of the TAP is that they can close down without notice when trouble—i.e.Here's a complete list of oil painting supplies for the beginning oil painter.: protests—are brewing. Permits aren’t issued at all to the TAR during the sensitive annual period of Tibetan New Year roughly spanning from February until the beginning of April and foreigners are also completely restricted from TAP areas as well. This time period corresponds with an increase in protests and self-immolations (setting oneself on fire, a form of suicidal protest) from Tibetans. However, most of the protests, and particularly the self-immolations, happen in the TAP. The TAP also contains the last of the Tibetan nomads, estimated to be as high two million and as low as one million or less.

Losang explains, “Though the Chinese government tries to paint a picture to the rest of the world that Tibetans love China and the Communist government,Museum quality hand-painted fine oil painting reproduction on canvas. in reality many hate it. In March 2008,What is a real time Location system ? tension boiled over and there was widespread violence and protests all across Tibet (including the Amdo and Kham regions found outside of the Tibet Autonomous Region).This page contains information about molds. While the violence in Lhasa lasted just four or five days, in other remote nomadic communities, the violence lasted for over three months.”

Tibet has three regions: U-Tsang makes up the TAR, Amdo is found in the Qinghai and western Gansu provinces, while Kham is in northwestern Sichuan. Nomadic populations are found in Kham and Amdo, and also have the most politically-minded Tibetans according to Losang.

“It is actually uncommon for fighting and protests to originate in Lhasa. The Tibetans who live Amdo … and Kham are far more patriotic and loyal to the Dalai Lama and cause exponentially more problems than Lhasa people do. About 60% of the Tibetan people live outside of the Tibet Autonomous Region and these 60% are very patriotic.”
I had started my first horse trek in Songpan, located in the Kham region, but next made my way to Langmusi in the Amdo.Ekahau rtls is the only Wi-Fi based real time location system solution that operates on any brand or generation of Wi-Fi network. Further up the highway by six hours, the region is far more rustic, having simple Tibetan towns decorated with prayer flags and temples throughout the vast plateau.

White canvas nomad tents (illustrating a transition from the traditional black yak wool tents formerly used) and yak herds also dot the grasslands by the highway. Accessible by bus, Langmusi is a relatively easy way to view traditional Tibetan nomadic culture. Going deeper in the Tibetan Plateau--where most traditional nomads live requires, according to Losang, another four to seven days to drive to and another two to five day horse trek.

Langmusi has two large monasteries, the Kirti Gompa and Serti Gompa—and a significant military presence. Monks tend to gather in tea houses to peer out the window in the afternoons, while nomads walk around town in a relaxed swagger that brings to mind Mongolian herders. The men sported long hair, wrap-around overcoats and scarves that covered their faces ninja-style. The women wore colorful long dresses and braided hair. I booked another horse trek through Langmusi Tibetan Horse Trekking to get a home stay experience in nomad culture.

The travel literature warned that during winter, which lasts well into April, the women would be in towns and villages while the men would be out with the yaks. The literature also stated that nowadays many men don’t go in the fields anymore but instead drink tea all day. Losang says that alcoholism, fights and gambling are common in male nomads giving up herding--similar to the ger districts of Ulaanbaatar. Violence is also common (though not toward foreigners), despite the common world-view of Tibetans as peaceful.

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